003: 10 Menswear Hacks You Won't Find In GQ

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Announcer: I'm not a Gentleman is a production of chaceandryder.com

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Vlad (host): I've even seen a trend where the tie knot is backwards. I mean, where you can actually see all the folds in the knot. I don't know who came up with that, but whoever it is should be indicted. Like what the hell are we doing, man? Yo, what's good? Welcome to I'm Not A Gentleman, the show designed to help you look stylish without following trends.

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I'm your host Vladimir Riché from chaceandryder.com and your favorite menswear YouTuber's favorite menswear YouTuber. I've helped dozens of clients and hundreds of students and viewers feel more confident by looking their best and always making a great first impression. Have you ever seen a guy that looks really sharp and you say to yourself, I can't ever pull that off?

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Well, we're going to put an end to that today. If I had a penny for every time somebody tells me that they can never pull off what I'm wearing, I'd probably be, all right, I don't know how much money I would have, but I'd be all right. The crazy part about it, usually it's not even anything too crazy either. Could be the shoes that I'm wearing, the scarf that I got on, or the pocket square that I'm wearing with my tie. It's nothing, man, it's the basics.

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but some guys get intimidated and feel like they can pull certain things off.

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I mean, all you have to do is know about those things, then you'll be able to pull it off as well. So that's what I'm attempting to do with this episode is to put an end to you guys saying that you can never pull that off because in most cases you can. So in this episode, I will give you 10 menswear hacks that you won't find in GQ. Shots fired. Check out my Patreon at imnotagenerman.com/support for behind-the-scenes footage, early access to episodes, and bonus content. INTRO!!

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Intro music: Back in that bag, in that bag, again whoa!

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So as I was saying, I'm going to give you guys 10 men's wear hacks that you can apply. Actually, I have an extra three or four hacks that'll be included as part of the bonus content on my Patreon, so you can definitely check that out. But we're not skimping here because I'm still giving you 10 that you can definitely apply to your wardrobe. So let's get started with hack number one. And this one is wear nice shoes. If you're familiar with me on YouTube,

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or you heard me on this podcast, then you know that I'm very passionate about shoes. Shoes are the foundation that every great wardrobe was built upon. I'm going to keep saying that until I'm old and gray. Well, I'm kind of gray now, but I'm not old. Anyway, I'm gonna keep saying that and try to drill it in your head every chance I get. To me, those shoes are the most important part of one's wardrobe.

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Of course, you can make an argument that the suit is the most important part. And I'm cool with that too. It's a matter of preference, but they're not really far apart. It's probably one and one a between the suit and the shoes. And unfortunately, a lot of guys overlook the shoes. Personally, when I see someone after looking at their face, my eyes go automatically down to their feet.

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I wish it wasn't like that, but it's just something that I can't help. I want to see what you weren't on your feet. So you always have to think that that's how people are going to look at you when you present yourself. So always pay attention to your shoes and don't leave it up to chance. Don't think about everything else and then think about the shoes last. Now shoes are expensive, although in most cases, not as expensive as suits, although it can get there depending on the brand. And.

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all those things that go into it. But typically the suit costs more than the shoes and then the shoes come right after that. And one thing that I see a lot of guys do, they would buy the most expensive suit that they can afford and buy the cheapest shoes that they can afford, which doesn't really make any sense.

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Personally, I buy my shoes first, and then I think about everything else after that. Doesn't mean that I buy the cheapest suit that I'm going to find and the most expensive shoes I'm going to find. To me, the sweet spot for shoes is between 400 and 500 to start. And of course, you can go much higher than that. Most of my shoes are, I'd say above the $500 price point. But.

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Fortunately, there are some good brands out there that still make good shoes starting around $200. Mielmann, for example, which is a brand out of Spain, their shoes cost just under $200 to start, I think around $180 or $190. Also brand like Carlos Santos out of Portugal, they make really nice shoes as well, starting around $200 and change. My first pair of Carlos Santos shoes that I had

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Bought it about six, seven years ago. Maybe it was even longer than that. Even though I had other shoes that was more expensive, I used to always reach for my Carlos Santos shoes. Now, if you really wanna take your shoe game to the next level, one thing that I would recommend is suede shoes. You don't see many guys wearing suede shoes. Typically when you see a guy in suede shoes, it means that he knows what he's doing. Especially once you start establishing.

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your collection and you already have a couple of smooth leather shoes, then you can expand more into suede shoes.  Grain shoes are an infatuation for me right now. Almost every new shoes that I get are grain shoes now. That's just a way to take your shoe game to the next level. So make sure you're wearing nice shoes. That's hack number one. Hack number two. Fit is king.

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So we're not going to spend a ton of time on this one because just a couple of weeks ago, my first episode actually was called a deep dive into suit-fitting artistry. So I will link that in the show notes, but you really don't want your suit not to fit you right, man. It doesn't matter how much your suit costs, if it doesn't fit you right, it doesn't really matter. The most important part of a suit is the fit.

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Unfortunately, when I worked in the menswear industry as a custom clothier, most of my clients were more interested in the bells and whistles that came with the suit as opposed to the fit itself. And you know, you're thinking if somebody's getting a custom suit, they're really into the fit of the suit because it's going to be made based off their measurements. But most guys cared more about the color, the lining, the contrast buttonholes and.

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things like that. I mean, you know, those things are cool, but you really want to make sure that the suit fits. That should be elementary, right? Because if you're wearing a suit, you want it to fit. But the problem is a lot of guys don't really understand fit. What you don't want is for the suit to be pulling all over. And you don't want the shoulders of the suit to be too big or too small for you. As I said in that episode that I was referring to.

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There are some things that can be altered, but the shoulders of a suit cannot be altered. So you definitely want to make sure that first and foremost, you get the shoulders right. Now, as far as the trousers, you don't want them to be too slim. You should be able to bend over and tie your shoes without worrying that the trousers might rip. Little things to look for is when you're standing straight or the pockets flaring because if they are, that means that the pants are too tight.

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So the bottom line is when you get a suit, especially when it's an off-the-rack suit, you want to make sure that you get the suit altered by a tailor before you actually wear the suit out. Because those suits are not one size fits all, so you can't expect them to fit you right off the rack. So definitely take it to a tailor that you trust and that's going to alter the suit for you. A wise man once said,

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Let me dish a little bit of dirt, get your sleeves altered, show a little bit of shirt and what he was referring to, all the sleeves of the jacket. You wanna make sure that you show about a quarter inch of shirt underneath. And that's one of those things that really gives it a nice finishing touch. So Fetish King, you definitely don't wanna overlook that. And I do wanna say that it costs extra to get your suit altered after you buy it, but please make sure that

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You're including that in your budget. When you're thinking about what suit you're going to buy, don't think that, okay, I put $500 towards the suit and that's all I have, so, therefore, I can't get it altered. You better be thinking more like $400 is what you're going to spend on the suit. That way you can have $100 left over for the alterations. So that's it for hack number two. Once again, I will include the episode that I did a couple weeks ago into the show notes, so you can dig deeper into that subject.

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Hack number three is your jacket's lapel size. This is something that you should be paying close attention to because obviously it can be changed. Because at some point, a lot of companies really started making really skinny lapels. It probably was around the time that a lot of companies were making a lot of skinny ties. So both of those were things that were a sign of fashion as opposed to style.

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But I'd say you want it to be at least around three and a half to three and three-quarters. I like them a little bit bigger because I have a broader chest. So therefore I like the lapels to be around four inches to four and a half inches. But you want it to be at least three and a half. Anything less than three and a half is starting to look a little too slim to my eyes. Unfortunately, lapels are one of those things that

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If nobody tells you about it, there's a good chance that you never really paid attention to the lapel of a jacket. So that's why I'm a big proponent of staying away for some of these fashion brands out there. And go with companies that make more of a classic style. Hack number four is wearing suspenders instead of a belt. Now they both play the same function, which is keeping your pants up. But the suspenders do a much better job.

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as they hang from your shoulders as opposed to your waist. And once you put your suspenders on in the morning, it's just set it and forget it. You don't have to worry about adjusting it throughout the day as you would with your belt, depending on if you had a big lunch or what have you. And one thing that I recommend, especially for guys that have a larger waistline, is to make the trousers' waist bigger than your actual waist. That way you can just float it with suspenders.

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I'm not saying to make it super big, but you can easily have it be about an inch bigger than your natural waist. That way you never have to worry about the waist of your trousers pinching your waist. And the trousers will stay in place throughout the day. Now there are two different types of suspenders. They'll clip on suspenders, where you can just clip them onto the waist of the trousers. Or they have the ones that attach to the buttons inside of the pants. Personally, I only use the latter.

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Although I've seen guys use the clip-ons and still look pretty stylish in some cases, but I'm definitely a regular suspenders guy as opposed to clip-ons. And also if you're listening in the UK, I know you guys say braces over there, but here in America, we say suspenders. Another advantage of wearing suspenders is not having to wear a belt, because in my opinion, a belt can definitely break you in half where you have a top portion and a bottom portion.

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with the belt in the middle, versus when you weren't suspenders, it's a much cleaner look. The whole thing just flows a lot better. Now, one thing about suspenders, it's not an accessory. I know that a guy is treated as such, but it's definitely not that. I remember I was at work one time and it was like after hours, we had already closed the office and I had to help somebody carry some boxes inside the office.

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And one of the guys that I work with, he's in another department, and he happened to walk into the office, and I was at my desk, and I had my jacket off. And he goes, oh wow, you wear suspenders? I never knew that. I'm like, yeah, I've been wearing suspenders for years. He's like, how come I never seen it? And I had to explain to him, you know, suspenders are just there to hold your pants up, they're not an accessory.

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So to him, he looked at it like it should be something that you show off. And he's not the only one that thinks that way. So it's definitely not an accessory. And in some parts of the world, they consider suspenders like underwear where it should never be seen. I don't go that far because sometimes you might catch my suspenders, but definitely shouldn't be used as an accessory. Hack number five. This one is big, man.

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Your trousers should have two-inch cuffs or turnips as they call them in the UK. Now, of course, it all comes down to personal style, but if you look at the classic menswear landscape, you'll notice probably about 90% of us or more have two-inch cuffs on our trousers. And that's because number one, it just looks good. So aesthetically it's a really nice look.

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And it's a different look. It's one of those things that set you apart from guys that aren't really menswear enthusiasts. But number two, it also plays a function where it makes the bottom of the trousers a bit heavier. So therefore they're draped better on your shoes. I've been wearing two-inch cuffs for so long that when I look at a pair of trousers that does not have cuffs, they just look weird to me. And I do understand it's a preference thing.

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But most guys that I know that are really good dressers, 99% of them have two-inch cuffs on their trousers. Now as far as the size of the cuffs, like I was saying two inches, it's not for everybody because let's say you're around 5'5 or shorter, I wouldn't recommend two-inch cuffs. I would probably say you want something around one and a half.

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If you're between 5'6 and let's say 5'8, 5'9, then I would recommend one and three quarters. But anybody above 5'8 or 5'9, I think should have two-inch cuffs on their trousers. And I know there's a train of thought that if it's a really serious suit, you shouldn't have cuffs on it. I do not subscribe to that notion. The only exception in my book are tuxedo trousers.

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So I don't want to hear that you can't pull that off. It's pretty easy. Just let your tailor know that you want to have two-inch cuffs on your trousers. And this is not something that's seasonal or something that's in right now. Two-inch cuffs have always been part of classic menswear. And it's not going anywhere. So I've been wearing two-inch cuffs on my trousers for about 10 years now, I want to say. So it's not going anywhere.

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It was there before me, it'll be there after me. So I highly recommend that you do two-inch cuffs on your trousers. Hack number six, pay close attention to your tie. You don't wanna go to your nearest Marshall's and just buy a tie that costs like $15. The thing is ties are pretty expensive, I must admit. So typically you're starting around $75 for a good tie.

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Now of course there are exceptions where you can possibly find some nice ties that are a little bit less than that, but at the same time, you can also find ties that are a lot more expensive than that. So most of my ties typically run around $125 and I know it's easy for somebody to look at my tie from afar and probably confuse it for a tie that is seen at a store like Marshall's like I was saying for about $15.

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But I promise you, once you get close, you'll see that it's not the same. Your tie sits right under your face, so it's definitely something that you don't wanna skimp on. By the way, I do have my own tie called the Entro tie, and I will include it in the show notes, so you can check it out. The good thing about ties, for the most part, it's one of those things that you don't really have to worry about the size. It's pretty much one size fits all, and I'm talking about the length.

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of the tie. I mean of course there are some guys that are taller so they'll get their ties custom-made to be a little bit longer. At the same time, there may be some guys that are shorter that prefer a shorter tie. But for the most part, it's pretty much one size fits all as far as the length. The only thing that I would say to pay attention to is the width of the tie. So you want the width to be at least 3.25" to about three and 3.75".

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Personally, I'm right in the middle. I like my ties to be three and a half inches. Although I do have a Purple Label tie from Ralph Lauren, that's around 3.75, almost 4" actually that I really, really love. Now speaking of ties, hack number seven, be very mindful of the knot that you're going to use on your tie.

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A lot of guys like to do what's called a Windsor knot, double Windsor knot, all sorts of craziness. You really don't have to do that. So you want your knot to be very basic, but at the same time, you want it to look nice because once again, the tie knot sits right beneath your face. So you can't really miss it. I've even seen a trend where the tie knot is backwards.

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I mean, where you can actually see all the folds in the knot. I don't know who came up with that, but whoever it is should be indicted. Like what the hell are we doing, man? Me personally, I use a four and hand knot, probably 75% of the time, and the other 25% of the time, I use an old birdie knot. And those are two knots that are very basic, but at the same time.

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They look really nice. And I will include videos of those knots in the blog post that's going to be associated with this episode. So go to imnotagentleman.com and you'll see a blog post titled 10 menswear hacks. There's been more than a few comments on YouTube of people telling me that I should be wearing a big or not. Thanks a lot for your advice, but I'm good.

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Hack number eight, wear a dress watch. I also spoke about this in the last episode, but I think that's something that should be mentioned in this episode as well. A nice watch just provides a nice finishing touch to your outfit. And one way that I like to look at it, as men we don't have a ton of accessories, so your dress watch is definitely something that can just tie everything together.

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And the reason why I specify an address watch is because you don't want to wear something like an Apple watch with tailored clothing. That just doesn't really go at all. And at the same time, I also don't believe that you should be wearing a tool watch with tailoring, especially when you're talking about a suit. A dress watch typically is going to be smaller than a tool watch. So when you're talking about a diver or

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a corner graph, dress watches are going to be smaller. So when you're wearing a suit, you're definitely the one to big watch on your wrist. So this is why I recommend that you do a dress watch. I have gotten some pushback before from guys that wear like a corner graph with their suits. And they said they've been doing it for years and they love their watch. And to that, I say carry on man, keep doing what you're doing. You know what I mean? But for those of you guys that don't know,

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I would highly recommend that you do a dress watch instead of a tool watch. Hack number nine is to dress for the season. So when I first got into menswear, I used to only wear four-season clothing. So all my suits were made in four season materials. But as I started to get really into it, I started leaning towards fall and winter menswear.

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And eventually, that came with the tweed sport coats, the flannel suits, etc.

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And to me, there's nothing like it when the season is coming up and you're already looking forward to how your wardrobe is going to change. Like right now we are in the early to mid part of August and I'm so looking forward to the fall. I don't know what to do with myself. So I'm already thinking about bringing out all my flannel suits, corduroy, the aforementioned weed.

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I just don't really know what to do with myself, man. And it's sad because that means that the summer's ending and I really do like the summer, especially being from the Caribbeans. But menswear and football really be having me looking forward to the fall and winter. You know? So you should definitely dress for the season. And at the same time, once April and May gets here, then that's when you start to transition.

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to your lighter clothing. So we're talking about fresco and hopsack and those types of materials that are a little bit more breathable. But at the same time, it is still important to have forces in fabrics. And the reason being is forces in fabrics are typically going to be your dressiest fabrics. So even though I have attended weddings in flannel suits before, but if you're going to a serious function,

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you do wanna wear four-season fabric because fabrics like fresco, hopsack, flannel, those are considered a little bit less dressy than your four-season material. So I'm not saying that there's not a place for those, but I think that it's very important that you have clothing that's associated with the season that you're in. And last but not least is hack number 10. And.

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that's to wear sleeveless cardigans. Yeah, I know this one is probably coming out of nowhere, but there's something about a sleeveless cardigan that just takes it to the next level. And a sleeveless cardigan is definitely one of those things that I wear, where a lot of people would say, I can't ever pull that off. Because even though I would recommend that you start with a color like navy, but I do have them in different colors. So.

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Purple, green, orange, those are really nice colors to have a sleeve that's called again in. And yellow, it's a really nice color as well. So don't be afraid to wear colors, man. My suits are typically gray and navy with a couple of greens and browns thrown in. But I'm not afraid of colors when it comes to things like my tie, my pocket square.

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my scarf, just a way to have fun with your clothing and still look stylish at the same time. And also something like a sleeveless cardigan can definitely cover a lot of sins. So if you have a little bit of a belly, that could be one way to hide it. And also sometimes where your shirt goes into your trousers doesn't always look that clean. It could be a little bit wrinkled in that area.

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So this is where your sleeveless cardigan also comes in. So to me, your sleeveless cardigan just take your style game to the next level. And that's another reason why I look forward to the fall and winter so I can start wearing those. I don't wear them all the time, but I do love to wear them. A lot of my sleeveless cardigans are from Drake's, but those are pretty pricey. Even though they make beautiful cardigans.

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We're talking about around $325 or $375 for a sleep discard again. To me, that's a heavy price to pay. So definitely do your research and look around. For example, there's a company called H.N. White out London that makes really nice cardigans and I think they go for around $150. I can't recall right now exactly how much they are, but definitely under $200 and a lot less than Drake's. So look into that and matter of fact, I will include the links.

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in the show notes and I will also have it in the blog along with pictures. So you can see the ones from Drake's and the ones from H.N. White. And if I can think of any other one, I'll include them in there as well. But a sleeve that's called again, you just want those things that take your game to the next level. One thing, and I like the colorful ones, but you can definitely get a navy. You can get a gray, can get something like off-white or a dark burgundy.

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They're a bunch of different colors to choose from. And even if you look at my avatar for the podcast cover where I'm wearing a green one, and that goes to show you how much I love those because I wanted to make sure that I was included.

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So this is the part of the show that I like to call I Got A Story To Tell. And it was 2016 and I addressed one of my clients for a wedding that he was going to attend. He's a DJ and the wedding was for this big NFL player. So he wanted to make sure that, you know, he wasn't going to look right for the wedding. You know what I mean? So we went to Suit Supply, got a really nice suit, got it tailored. We put suspender buttons in the trousers. And I remember asking him,

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Do you want them to cut off the belt loops since you're going to be wearing suspenders? And since he had never worn suspenders before, he was like, no, just leave the belt loops in, just in case, if I want to go back to belt. So I was like, all right, that's cool. So ironically, I also had a wedding to attend that day, but mine was in Jamaica. So I'm in Jamaica and I get a few missed calls. And then I get a text saying, you're Vlad, call me ASAP. I'm like, oh man, what's going on?

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And that was my client. So I called him, I'm like, yo bro, what's going on? And he sounded like he was panicking. He goes, yo bro, is it true that I also have to wear a belt with my suspenders because I didn't bring one. I was like, nah man, see that's the thing. The belt and the suspenders play the same role. So if you're wearing suspenders, there's no need to wear a belt. And he was like, see, I tried to tell them, but they tried to argue with me that I still needed to wear a belt.

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It is so funny, man, because just this past Friday, went out for my niece's birthday, and there happened to be a wedding party there. And one of the guys in the wedding party was walking around with suspenders and a belt. And he clearly was using it as like an accessory. You know what I'm saying? And as I was saying before, your suspenders are not an accessory. They're just there to hold your pants up.

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So don't make that mistake of wearing a belt and suspenders. It doesn't make any sense, man.

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So today we're going to do something a little bit different where I'm going to answer a couple of questions that my listeners left me on my website. So if you go to imnotagentleman.com , on the bottom right corner, you'll see a microphone. So please feel free to leave me any questions for a chance for it to be included in a future episode. So let's go to question number one.

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Caller #1: Hey man, this is Andre Watson. Love what you're doing with the platform in this brand new podcast. Congrats on all your success. Quick question for you. Just curious to know your thoughts regarding the menswear industry as a whole. Do you think we're gonna go into a new boom era where menswear and formal menswear is more mainstream or do you think given COVID and just kind of the more casual nature of the world today, the formal menswear will just be a niche segment of the industry? Thanks, man. Appreciate it.

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Vlad: That's a great question. I wish I had a crystal ball to really know where things are going. I wanna say that eventually things will come back, but my fear is things started going down, and by going down, I mean heading towards where things are just so casual. Those things started happening before COVID. So COVID was just the last nail in the coffin. I think that

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eventually things will come back, but I don't think that they'll ever come back to where they were. My daughter was born in June of 2018 and I remember around that time right after she was born, I was getting a suit made and I was telling the clothing that I'm looking to start a YouTube channel and it's like what are you going to be talking about? I'm like I'm going to be talking about teller clothing and suits and it was like hmm I don't know that's really going to be doing well because right now nobody's really wearing a suit anymore.

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And that was in the summer of 2018. So that was, you know, a year and a half before COVID really hit. I remember Goldman Sachs in the winter of 2019 decided to make student tie optional. And we're talking about Wall Street here, you know what I'm saying? So I think that eventually things will come back. I don't know to what extent though. The good news is I don't really mind it because for guys like us that love to wear tailored clothing.

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It makes us stand out even more. And also, it also makes you step up your casual game a little bit more, because when I first started, I used to wear suits all the time, man. Just every day was suits, suits, suits. Now I wear a lot of sportcoats and odd trousers, and sometimes I don't even wear a sport coat at all. I just wear like a long sleeve polo shirt with a really nice collar. So you can still look fly without wearing a suit.

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And eventually, I will make an episode on how to dress business casual and still look fly. Yeah, I think he'll come back, but I don't think he'll come back all the way. Or even if it does, it's going to be a while. That's what I think, but I'm not 100% sure myself. So that's something I'm definitely looking forward to finding out too. So shout out to Andre, man. Appreciate the question. Let's go to the next one.

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Hey, what's going on, Vladimir? This is Aziz, coming to you all the way from the Middle East, Saudi Arabia to be exact. Man, I just wanna say the content that you're putting out in the YouTube space as far as menswear, stuff like this is, in my opinion, is second to none. So I just wanna give you props for that. I do have one question regarding the shoulder padding for the suits. What do you usually prefer yourself as far as shoulder padding do you usually go with?

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padded or lightly padded or just a shirt-style kind of shoulder padding. Also, what do you think about if someone is going with a padded shoulder, lightly padded, changing that when you change the fabrics of the suits, if you're going from traditional fabric to like a more lighter fabric, like cotton or linen suit, going more like a casual short style padding. What do you think about that? Once again, thank you very much and appreciate you, man.

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Vlad: Wow, your boy's international, international. My guy Aziz, appreciate you, man. Thanks for the question. And it's a great question too. When it comes to shoulder paddings, it's definitely one of those things that depends largely on preference. So he was asking me for my preference. I prefer the Neapolitan style which is a very relaxed style.

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So very minimal padding, if anything at all, versus a lot of guys prefer the English style where it's more structured. So more padding on the shoulders. If someone is not sure, then I would say to err on the side of caution and for your more formal stuff, you can have it lightly padded or padded depending on what you like. And then for your casual stuff, you can have it.

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more with minimal padding that way you can try on both to see which one you like and then going forward you can make a decision on which one you're going to lean towards. I just lean all the way into the Neapolitan style for myself personally but there's no right or wrong answer here just really depends on preference. It also depends on your frame as well. I happen to have very broad shoulders so I don't really feel like I need the padding but if somebody is very slim and they want

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bigger in their suits, then the padding can definitely help. But that was an excellent question and I appreciate the compliment. And shout out to Saudi Arabia. So that was my episode on the 10 men's wear hacks that you won't find in GQ. To recap, hack number one was to wear nice shoes. Hack number two was Fittest King.

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Number three was the lapel size. Number four was to wear suspenders instead of a belt. Number five is to cuff your trousers, two inches preferably. Number six is not to skimp on your tie as it sits right below your face. Number seven, also pay attention to your tie knot. You don't wanna wear anything too crazy like a double Windsor. or even worse. Number eight, wear a dress watch.

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Number nine, you want to dress for the season. And number 10, wear a sleeve that's caught again in the fall and winter. Thanks for checking out I'm Not A Gentleman. If you like the episode, follow the podcast and leave your boy a five-star review.

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You can find us on imnotagentleman.com or wherever you listen. Check out my Patreon at imnotagentleman.com/support for behind-the-scenes footage, early access to episodes, and bonus content. And tuning in again next week for another fire episode of I'm Not A Gentleman. Peace!

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